Zahle in the hearts of Lebanon's tourists
Mon, Sep 09 2009
Zahle, the historical trading city between Lebanon and Syria, is famous for its wine and arak. Usually a stopping point for tourists traveling to Baalbek and Anjar, the city itself has seen a recent upsurge in activity this summer. Caretaker Tourism Minister Elie Marouni, originally from Zahle, has called it an “unprecedented year for Zahle which the ministry has tried to support financially and non-financially.”

Grand Hotel Qadri, found in the center of the city across the Berdouni River, is one of the biggest and most reputable hotels in the region. Fawzi Khayat, the banquet sales manager, recalls that the “hotel bookings this summer were better than last year, but not as good as expected.” The hotel was fully booked in July but partially in August, although the city is noticeably more quiet during Ramadan season.

The types of guests in the hotel depend on the season. During spring, the hotel hosts numerous political events and dinners. Pharmaceutical, agricultural, and other business conferences are also held throughout the year. “Any business that wants to invest in the Bekaa has to pass by us,” says Khayat confidently.

In the summer, clients are usually Westerners or members of the diaspora who come to relax for a weekend. Tourists from the Gulf, however, do not come in numbers as “there is no exposure of the Bekaa to the Gulfis,” says Khayat.

Zahle also receives many Jordanians and Syrians traveling to and from Syria. However, the number of Syrian visitors has significantly decreased since the assassination of former Lebanese Prime Minister Rafik Hariri and the subsequent withdrawal of Syrian troops in 2005. “Before you might have seen 100 cars with Syrian plates on a Friday evening, now you barely see 20,” says Khayat.

In addition to its geographic position, Zahle’s touristic potential also lies in the Berdawni River, a small river which flows from Mount Sanine and across Zahle.

A pedestrian area, comprised of the so-called “Berdawni restaurants,” the location is visited by many for its soothing setting. The entrance has stands selling traditional sweets and toys, as well as a recreational area for kids. Further along the waterside, a few shaded restaurants serving Lebanese dishes can be found.

“After the parliamentary elections, there has been a lot of activity. Reservations were needed for Saturdays and Sundays,” said Wadih Nmeir, co-owner of the Casino Nmeir restaurant, next to a fountain. Recently the restaurant has been packed only during the day. “People are scared to drive up to Zahle at night because the main road is not lit,” he explains.

Walid Khalaf, co-owner of a nearby cafe “Boozah Khalaf-Abu Sleiman,” describes the summer as legendary. Surrounded by Jeita-like stalactite, the cafe serves traditional Arabic ice cream. Khalaf has met members of the Lebanese diaspora from Australia, Europe and Africa, and says he even shook the hand of former US President Jimmy Carter. “Every day is like a Sunday,” he gloats.

Considered the gem of the city, the river lacks considerable maintenance. The stench of the river’s garbage overwhelms some parts of town. Nmeir explains that the municipality cleans the river often but that many factories in a towering village pollute the water. Khalaf claims that the municipality cleans the river once per year, in September. Last spring, the melted ice caused an overflow. “It was like a tsunami” says Nmeir. The water had reached a level so high that it destroyed all equipment, which restaurants had to reimburse.

Some say that Zahle’s charm resides in its proud people. “Zahliotes are generous, pious, and bad-mouthed,” jokes Khalaf. Even so, the condition of the Berdawni River remains a key issue of concern as goes the saying: “Zahle is nothing without the Berdawni.”
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